Got a bad remap, & want your van put back to stock ? need DPF & Adblue systems switched back on or just fancy the latest updates ? updating the engine ECU , also known as a PCM ( powertrain control module) can solve some of these problems & also unmask any fault code deletes that may have been carried out if your original stock file is no longer available.
Only Ford’s own tool’s ( IDS for Euro 3, 4,5 or FDRS on Euro 6+ ) can do this job without error, so be super careful if you are considering doing it yourself with aftermarket tool’s. For £100 or so i dont think the risk makes sense.
Updates to all Ford’s can be carried out while you wait in Uxbridge or Glasgow & if there is no update available, say your tuning was done on the lastest version already, we can still flash the ECU with the stock file’s.
2024 update – this service is avialable to most makes & models , not just Ford!.
Motorhome owner Tony C from Essex, recently bought a Iris Bus conversion, & the engine wouldn’t rev over 2500rpm , I supplied a BSI ( Body Systems Interface ) ( Body ECU ) that had no tacho from factory & all was good , alternative is having tacho switched off in existing BSI, but in this case , we had already removed the immobiliser from the engine ECU, so any BSI could be installed & tried , without any programming ( as long as gearbox type matched ) . . That’s a really shortened version of what actually happened over a few months , as it was a non runner , then a runner once immobiliser was removed but with 9 engine fault codes , so many things happened 1st resolving faults one by one with ECU swaps,. Finally though Tony said it could only be a faulty tacho now & he was right. T sign tacho missing message was gone from dash & mileage showed correctly, once the new BSI was installed.
Known sometimes as “The Big ECU”, it was the 1st ECU fitted to Daily MK3 with common rail injection, 01-03 although you may see them on as late as 2004. They were used on 2.3 & 2.8 in several specs, dependent on engine type & power level. Maybe these early ECU van’s were Euro 2 emission spec?
8140.43R 86ps 63kw 2800
8140.43B 106ps 78kw 2800
8140.43S 130ps 95kw 2800
8140.43N 150ps 110kw 2800
F1AE0481A 95.9ps 70.5kw 2300
F1AE0481B 116ps 2300
If you look at the ECU label the engine is printed on there. Best to buy one based on what it says on that label as many for sale are misdescribed (or get seller to confirm engine code of donor van). In ECU replacement terms, any 0281001537 can be reprogrammed to suit any version engine, but its a chip out job in many cases so can get expensive so try & find right one then its just an immobiliser off job, then plug & play.
The engine code & power level ( in KW ) is also on the chassis tag, on bonnet slam panel.
If your one is faulty / failed, find one on ebay, have it sent direct to me to save postage & I can program it to suit & send it on to you. .
From the end of 2011, Euro 5 came out ( in the UK) with DPF, & were available in 100, 125 140 & 155ps. All same engine , bar differences for RWD or FWD fitment. The ECU software only determines power level. Pre end 2011, DPF was an option, very rarely taken up on UK vans. Best to disregard 61 plate / 12 plate when deciding if Euro 4 or 5, as either can be on either plate, its based truly on build date. More common on European ones. In Australia you can find 2012 on sort of Euro 5 spec, ( same Euro 5 base engines) but without DPF’s!
Euro 4 came out mid 2006 & are found in 85, 100, 115, 140 & 200ps, most have no DPF, although it was an option. turbo & injectors differ on these MK7, (pre 2012 ) DPF equipped models.
Our friends over on the LDV Maxus spares & repair group on facebook have discovered a flaw in the engine’s oil circulation system, resulting in the fairly common premature engine failure.
Here is the post: (& there is a link to a video at the end )
Regarding the oil pressure system in your LDV Maxus Vehicle. It has been brought to light by Tomasz Kulak and his work with the VM Montori engines ( these are in ALL the LDV Maxus Vehicles & The london Black Cabs and also Chrysler Jeep and some others) In summary, the fault lies in the oil pressure system, and it’s failure to maintain the oil supply to the whole of engine and its moving parts, does not stem from the obvious – the pump. But from 3 little oil seals and those overheat and they fracture, causing the drop in oil pressure which results in the big end bearings failing and many other parts too. It is insidious in its nature as it is slowing happening without any obvious signs. There have been cases where owners have had a flickering oil light and then within a relatively short time the big end bearing sieze. This is normally terminal due to the expense. But there is a fix – and this will restore the FULL oil pressure resulting in lower enigine noise and smoother running. It involves removing the sump and a metal plate inside that holds these 3 oil seals in place under pressure maintaining oil flow pressure. The NEW seals are rated to 700c degrees and are high quality Silcone – The original LDV Maxus ones are a lot lower temperature rated, and a Nitrile Based material. You can get your own gasket or buy one from Tomasz Kulak with the seals or without and you can also use a silcone sealant in place of the normal gasket – if you wanted to. This job can be carried out by any competent person or Tomasz is willing to do the job for you coupled with a oil change and service. Contact him for prices and info. Below is a link to the video showing you exactly what the issue is and how to cure it. Also Tosmasz’s website is below showing what he does and the engines and vehicles he works on – he is fully mobile. Tomasz Kulak (member on here) Phone: +44 7399 399403 website: https://vmgarage.co.uk/
A commmon enough complaint & usually the fix isnt too involved.
Let me guess – you have just one battered key so no way to verify if the key itself is at fault by trying your spare ?
Does key in drivers door operate central locking still ? Yes ? so the central locking itself is working. The physical key turn triggers the BCM ( Body Controle Module ) to unlock / lock doors.
The keyfob operation, relies on a good key, receiver, & wiring.
Often the keyfob’s ( blue 3 button remote ) buttons switches fail, & there are chaps on ebay that will test & fix the key with new switches & a cover etc for 30 quid or so. Maybe get a mobile locksmith to test the keys buttons 1st or supply a replacement / spare.
The key receiver is behind the headlining , front & centre, its only job is to recieve the keys buttons signal for central locking purposes , these can fail. Consider a used one as they rarely fail so used is a safe bet.
If all above checks out then test wiring (for continuity) from BCM to receiver.
August 2024 Update – VT is no longer offers this service , due in part to to complexities on later (Euro 5) variants.
So , i no longer offer programming, but here is some info from my notes on how i did it . All credit for the following goes to my friend Greg who worked all of this out.
Do with this info what you please & please do not ask for further info. Any auto electrician will understand these concepts. & this applies to Euro 4 vans, not Euro 5, & was effective up to about 2010, if you dont have this “yellow “small oblong relay box under the bonnet then you have a later model one & this guide does not apply. & this isnt a definitive guide, just notes & info on the most simple way possible to do it, changing the least possible amount of parts.
After fitting your manual gearbox & clutch & manual pedals
1 – Find someone reprogram the BSI ( Body Control Module / Body Systems Interface/ Body ECU ) to Manual gearbox type or get a used BSI from a manual. The used one you buy , if going down that route , must be from a tacho equipped vehicle, if you plan to keep using the tacho, & from a non tacho vehicle if your vehicle has no tacho. Your keys wont work if using a used one, so gets keys reprogrammed by an auto locksmith or get the immo removed from your engine ECU so vehicle will start again then get the remotes reprogrammed .
2 – Put a jumper at position T18 in the small fuse box in engine bay pictured below ( you will see a missing relay in that position, on Agiles, so just bridge it ( thats faking a relay’s “output”circuit to be always on / connected )
3 – Use the Agile speed sensor from your Agile gearbox & put that on your manual box, where this blanking plug is:
3 – The TCU must remain connected (otherwise there will be ABS problems), OR bridge CAN lines at TCU loom connector plug so CAN signal bypasses the TCU & carries on to the ABS unit.
4 -No changes are needed to the engine ECU
I no longer have notes on Euro 5’s, or wiring diagram for the TCU connector, but do recall a few people asking about the pedal switches. Most Daily have switches for brake & clutch pedal position, so maybe you need to consider the requirement for a clutch position switch, & maybe the plugs are already in place ( on Agile dash wiring looms ). best look at a manual gearbox model , for reference, if you get problems. I recall the main engine fuse & relay box need a bridge on Euro 5’s but i dont have the exact info anymore sorry.
The alternative to the above is getting a manual donor vehicle & swapping every everything that differs’ including , all ECU’s & modules, all under bonnet wiring & that which goes to the gearbox ECU ( TCU), & maybe the actual ABS unit as well.
Iveco are more difficult to diagnose , as they use a Fiat/Iveco specific communication protocol – many tools do not connect to them, or should do but dont work right, or only work on some models. & for some MK6, or Euro 5A ( approx 2019+_) you will probably need SGW ( security gateway) access , via a 30 quid SGW adapter or you ‘d be looking at premium tools that offer licensed access, in the 5k range to get coverage on these, even for just DTC reading . Additionally you’ll probably not get classic P****-** codes , but numbers from Iveco’s own code system. Finally you have a 38 pin connector on pre 2007 MK3 & older vans. ( you can buy an adapter for this to convert to the normal 16pin OBD2, china specials for £10 or so sometimes work or go HERE for a good one ).
Vantuner does not sell program’s or adapters but here are some of the the choices for Windows based adapters / programs :
Maxi-ECU – Maxi make an Iveco Specific program , its a genuine quality, with an industry leading ugly program interface that reads fault codes & live data on some & little else. £150
Delphi DS150E – a great £2k tool originally but chinese clones of varying quality can be had for about 50 quid upwards. Does way more than Maxi, for example DPF reset & regen. Installation is not easy for most due to the nature of the needed cracked software. Not working on MK3 ( most pre 2007) on my tests & generally buggy due to the cracked software. But if you’re really comfortable with Windows software program installations , worth a shot for the money.
FiCom – £425 a genuine & good spec tool that covers codes, live data & limited coding & resets but support is bad, their 16pin to 38pin OBD adapter looks good . see here : http://www.obdtester.com/obd2_adapters
Others –
Autel Android Based Tablets – from about £500, menu system is little confusing without training ( (some Italian terms used in vehicle selection) , seems OK on earlier van’s ( tested on MK3 & MK4 engine ECU’s, but doesn’t cover early big ECU ( Bosch MS6.3 ) #0281001537 from around 2002 . On a 2016 2.3, DPF & oil reset didn’t work & auto VIN ID failed.
Iveco Easy – what the dealers use – the best you can get but the tool is maybe £2300 + . There is however one Lithuanian ebayer that sells the interface for £1400 & then you’ll need the software, which seems to be readily available, maybe from that same Lithuanian chap.
Program limitations – all of these listed , like most diag tools, copy over the “protocols” from the dealer tools to varying levels of success. The genuine Iveco ” E.A.S.Y” tool, is pretty limited coding wise, but is the only really effective tool for in in depth diagnosis.
Bet advice for the home mechanic is to buy Maxi ( 2004 onwards vans only ) & if it doesn’t work on your your van, or do what you need to do , consider Ficom, then the others.
Vantuner does not supply free codes but you can do it yourself unless youare a lazy cunt. .
link to a free code generator – Follow this link for a free to use calculator for Ford Radio Codes, if it doesn’t work, google free ford radio codes & work through the various ones until you find a real free one. ( most charge after entering teh V number despite saying free) The one i just linked to was still good as of 9/2026
How to view your V code on a 2006.5+ Transit MK7
Press 1 & 6 on your Ford Radio MK7 radio & you should get info scrolling on the LCD, after 20 seconds of info, the V code will appear , V followed by 6 numbers – enter the V code IE V123456 into a calculator ( including the V) & you can get your code.
MK6 Transit
On older black MK6 Transit radio’s, the code begins with M & is printed on the label on the side or rear of the radio, so remove it with some stereo key’s & you will see the code to enter on a similar site.
All 2019 2020 2021 2022 etc Transits can now be upgraded to 185ps. 105/130/170/185 all use the same engine so no excess stress either on the engine once upgraded. It’s not really a remap, just a trick using Ford software, so it might even be warranty safe. Call 07956 555 666 for more info.
