Iveco Daily often have the immobiliser system go down with little or no warning resulting in no start or intermittent start & a code / key icon warning lamp flashing in the dash.. .Vantuner can delete / bypass the factory immobiliser completely by simply reprogramming the engine ECU at a fraction of the cost of any alternative.. Models covered all & any 2.8/2.3/3.0 Diesel up to about 2020. The original youtube video which directs you to this page can be found here
When the immobiliser is working OK, the code lamp, with its key icon, will light for 3 seconds after IGN on then go off. On MK3’s you can hear the fuel primer / lift pump for 4 -10 seconds each time you turn the ignition on. Checking there is voltage to the primer/lift pump is a good idea to help establish the actual fault, particularly if you have more than just the immo light flashing. Its located on the passenger side chassis leg.( RHD van’s) on Euro 3 van’s & inside the fuel tank on later van’s. There is a fuse & a relay that feeds this pump:
There are a few differing fuse arrangements , but on most Euro 3 MK3 , up to 2006 ish, rectangle headlamps versions, right hand drive , the fuse relay board is in the passenger side dash , behind a pull off panel. The pump relay #25837 is at the bottom of the fuse board. From the fuses go towards the steering wheel & its the 3rd relay along the bottom, called fuse 47 on the factory diagram
With an active & working (or fully disabled immobiliser), assuming ECU & wiring are okay, the pump will run until for a few seconds each time ignition is turned on, until enough pressure is created. Power the pump with 12v, check power to fuse & correct relay function, also , if its getting 12v but not working , if you give it a couple of taps it may work. There is a bleed valve on the filter head in the engine bay you can open to clear trapped air.
The pump’s fuse is number 47 & has rating of 10A. Along the bottom of the fuse board, the bottom row it is the 4th fuse from left .
1st Fuse 34 20A. nearest passenger door.
2nd Fuse 11 15A.
3rd Fuse 24 10A.
4th Fuse 47 10A.
5th Fuse 18 10A
There is a small filter positioned just after the lift pump, rarely blocked but worth ruling out.
A common failure on no start iveco daily is an earth problem & also power to ECU problem. Check or redo engine to chassis earth & check you have 12v feed to the engine ECU. With the protective cap removed from the larger of the 2 ECU connector plugs you will see larger pins on one side of the ECU , pin 1 is +12v & pin 2 & 3 are Ground. There are others but start with those. The 12v feed issue is usually a faulty relay or no power to the relay’s smaller 2 contacts, scroll down & look at an email received from a customer, he has covered many good relay & pin tests OK MK3’s. Also see wiring guides linked to below. Often with an ECU power problem, the dash looks like a christmas tree as in many lamps lit not just immo lamp or lights can work intermittently. See this pic for main power & ground connectors, you’ll need to check the corresponding connectors on the ECU loom plug. 1st picture is the ECU’s for about 2003-2009 van’s & the 2nd pic is the 2001 to 2003 early bigger type.
No power to the solenoid on the high pressure pump can be fuse 52 ( up to 2006 Euro 3 ) Fuse 52 is erroneously described as 4×4 Transfer on the Iveco fuse layout guide.
On all models the engine ECU itself can short circuit through boost charging or shorting out of the positive terminal to the ECU body, ( always remove negative terminal 1st & put it in a sock or something if working on the battery !) you can check for the short circuit yourself although the cover removal is tricky, see video here
MK4 – 2007 On
Under bonnet fuse & relay box, called a CVM by Iveco – driver side on RHD van’s- A couple of customers reported replacing fuse F16 described in the Iveco manual as “Fuse 16, 5 amp, T02 T14, Additional Heater ” . Its in the chain of power to fuses 11/17,22, which are linked to EDC power relay T09 & T10, the main high pressure pump relay. If F16 keeps blowing, test relay T09 which might be seized.. Relays are fairly easy to test, there are plenty of videos on youtube showing how. New price on them is shocking but breakers should be full of them & many are of the same type, so mark each then take a photo, then swap like for like ones around. 2007+ Iveco Daily Fuse & Relay Guide
2000-late 2001 Daily
They dont have an engine ECU ( in most cases) but do have an immobilser . You need to rewire the stop solenoid on the injection pump to defeat the immobiliser. It’s straightforward & can be made to be ON/OFF via the ignition switch quite easily..
Removing the existing stop solenoid on the injection pump is easy with a Dremel tool, cutting disks and grinding head.
The original power to the immobiliser can be utilised to provide power for the stop solenoid without adding a new switch/wire, and continues to work from the ignition
More detailed fuse & relay Info
This fuse & relay guide page is for Euro 4 ( 2006-2011) Iveco Daily, look for “EDC16” items as well as fuel pump, “EDC16” being the Bosch model designation for the engine ECU type used on Euro 4 Dailies..
Here is a link to what Iveco call a 2004 Manual, seems to cover a lot of MK3 models, 2.8, 2.3, & 3.0 Iveco Daily 2004 MK3 Repair Manual
iveco-daily-euro-4-2006-2009-manual Its a fairly big & consequently slow to load PDF document covers most wiring & some repair procedures on Euro 4 Daily models.
This fuse & relay guide is for Iveco Daily 2000-2006.
The ECU on RHD vehicles , is located under bonnet, on the right hand side , further right than the battery so remove the battery to get access, & remove any bracketry prior to posting. Its easy to short connections on these van’s so one tip is to remove the negative terminal cable from the battery & put it straight into to a glove or 2 then stuff it out of the way.
The postal remaps page here has details of where to send & how to pay etc, & although you can drop it in by appointment if you prefer, don’t be shy about posting it, the units are shockproof & I’ve never lost one in 11 years of doing this via Royal Mail Special Delivery – You can just use a size H Jiffy bag on all but the earliest type in the 1st picture & a small section of cardboard to protect the connector end.
You’ll find your engine ECU is made by Bosch & has one of the following part numbers :
0281001537, 0281011228 or 0281012193 – & from about 2011 onwards, 0281030092 , 0281017455 or 0281010453. All of these can have the immobiliser deleted /bypassed.
Here is the earliest type ( 0281001537)
Here is the one that most commonly fitted to vans that get problems – part number 0281011228, the Euro 4 van’s with ECU part number 0281012193, have an almost identical look as do 2011 Euro 5 onwards.
Below is the immobiliser box you have to permanently disconnect if your van is a Euro 2 or 3 , (produced from roughly 2001-2006)., The box, if fitted, is located just forward or right of the steering column , under the dash, Its tricky to see & even harder to remove but you can unplug its two plugs in situ or undo the 2 Torx bolts holding it in & you ‘ll then find unplugging much easier. Locate the immo box by tracing the wiring down from the receiver ring that surrounds the ignition barrel or remove the speaker & put your paw in & turn left a little & you can feel the box & it’s connectors.
This is a picture of the ignition & key, receiver ring that picks up a signal from the key, & wiring to the immobiliser box, to give an idea of the offending systems components size & look.
To work on the immobiliser the engine ECU must be removed & posted in, ( less any brackets to save postage ) once you get it back , disconnect the immobiliser box (pre ’07’s MK3’s) , re-install the engine ECU & you’re good to go. The immobiliser’s / key code lmap in the dash should now be off ( if Euro 2 or 3 type ) & the van will start. On MK4 Euro 4 2007 onwards models the immo lamp will be lit permanently but isnt intrusive or an MOT failure. Usual turnaround is 1 to 2 days or you can book in for it to be done while you wait if you bring the ECU here by car etc.
Whilst the ECU is here , speed limiter removal or tuning for economy / power , torque can also be carried out.
Message: Good evening, I have an iveco recovery truck that I potentially need the ECU looking at for but I would appreciate some honest guidance as to whether you think it is necessary as my next step. If you believe it would benefit from ECU diagnostic and or immobiliser removing then please provide me with pricing. Here is what has happened so far: When I bought the truck on the journey home it would occasionally cut all power, turning the key off and back on would resolve this and it would continue to drive. After getting home I serviced the truck – oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter & cabin filter. It started up and ran fine. I broke down in my daily vehicle so went to recover myself in the Iveco and as I was pulling out of my yard it cut out – and hasn’t started since. Upon initially investigation I found fuse 24 (EDC/ECU) was burnt out. This should have been a 10A but it was a 15A in place. I replaced it with a 10A hoping that would be that but it’s made no difference. Since then I’ve tried a multiple of things – Charged battery. Checked all obvious earths. Checked every single fuse. Tested the 25858 ECU relay. Tested the 25837 Fuel Pump relay. Tried EasyStart. Found ECU isn’t getting 12v at plug Pin 1 (main power pin). Checked continuity on cable from fuse 24 to pin 1. All ok. Plugged in code reader, doesn’t read as ECU isn’t getting 12v. Traced back ECU pin 1, fuse 23 (ECU) & fuse 24 (EDC/ECU) not getting 12v. Traced that back, relay 25858 (ECU) is getting 12v on the signal wires (85 & 86) but not closing and outputting 12v from pin 30 to 87 (which then goes to fuse 23 & 24). Hot wired the fuel pump to run constantly. By passed the ECU relay to provide 12v to fuse 23 & 24 (pin 30>87 where relay should be). Pulled the cluster out, found perished wires, replaced them. Checked wires going to & from immobiliser. That’s pretty much where I’m at. I’m fairly confident it has to be a simple electrical fault. The fact the ECU fuse was blown could mean the ECU is fried but the ECU plug isn’t getting 12v so I’m not convinced that’s the case. Following the info on this guide I believe the cluster sends a signal to wake the ECU but I can’t find out which wire/pin it is.
Thanks for your time and help with my year 2000 Iveco 2.8.
The issue was resolved by removing the immobiliser and rewiring the stop solenoid.
I will put together some info but in case you get any other enquiries, a couple of quick points.
Removing the immobiliser is really easy with a Dremel tool, cutting disks and grinding head. Took only a few minutes.
The original power to the immobiliser can be utilised to provide power for the stop solenoid without adding a new switch/wire, and continues to work from the ignition.