All 2019 2020 2021 2022 etc Transits can now be upgraded to 185ps. 105/130/170/185 all use the same engine so no excess stress either on the engine once upgraded. It’s not really a remap, just a trick using Ford software, so it might even be warranty safe. Call 07956 555 666 for more info. Can be done at all VT branches, London Norwich & Glasgow.
The limit on these is now cracked & removable. Also power upgrades to 185ps on all lower ps models, (105, 130 & 170)
If you’ve a Transit, for example a MK6 (2000.5 -2006.5 ) that has a boost sensor mounted on the intercooler as opposed to bulkhead mounted one, you’ll have found out that the limiter in the ECU program itself isn’t known so one option is to fit a zener ziode on the boost sensor circuit to limit what boost the ECU actually see’s. Its a trick, & a good one at that. (If you’ve a bulkhead mounted boost sensor just disconnect the silicon pipe that feeds it! weirdly that’s enough ! )
The theory is this – the zener passes any required voltage level up to the desired amount & bleeds off to ground any excess voltage. Let’s say on idle the return signal voltage is 2V, max boost before Ecu starts limiting is 4.4V, with a 4.4V zener in circuit any excess voltage between 4.4V & 5V is fed to ground so the Ecu only sees a max of 4.4V so fuel isn’t limited & boost & fuel continues to rise.
You’ve got 3 wires on your boost sensor-
Signal In (5V)
Signal Return (less than 5V, peaking towards 5V at max boost)
Try a 4.3V 1/4W or 4.7V 1/4W Zener or measure the voltage at which once breached, the ECU cuts the fuel, the choose a zener of a value that has a breakdown voltage at that level. In reality the effectiveness of the circuit isn’t so clear cut, & a resistor is usually used to limit current in zener circuits to make the bleed off ( breakdown voltage) more accurate & consistent. In reality, trying a few different zeners is practical. You’re attempting to limit a voltage range of between 4-5V so get some in that range & experiment.
The side with the line on the zener needs to be connected to Signal Return & the other to the Ground wire. Let me know your results & comments by posting below & i’ll update the post for more model specific details.
I didn’t believe it either but VT customer Mark Magnus had 3 BCM’s fail after a couple of days before he was told that some pattern AC pumps can cause this. With the A.C pump disconnected , the 4th BCM i cloned for him was OK. Van was a 2010 2.4 RWD.
All Mercedes Sprinter & Vito speed limiter removal , new & old models right up to date, 2002-2021+. Over 3.5 tonne, Ex Minibuses, Van’s chassis cab’s , ex supermarket delivery van’s etc -no problem. Middlesex based. Many dealers & remappers struggle on the newer ones so save time & make a booking on 07956 555666.
Over on Iveco Forums there are some useful guides for the Iveco Daily
( Feb 2022 Update – it’s now cracked – the limit can be removed & all 2019+ models engine power can be uprated to 185ps as well if needed.)
170ps Euro6d (6d-TEMP) Tippers that use the SID212evo engine ECU have a factory limiter set about 65mph, it’s due to what Ford call “Whole Life Testing Protocol” Recent emissions scandals really focused regulators on emissions after delivery is made & it’s calculated that in a year or 3 once engine & tyres are worn etc the emissions on affected models may just go over the prescribed limit. Normally one would hack the engine ECU to kill the limit but because no remapping equipment can access the Continental SID212/212evo engine ECU file yet it’s not yet possible. ( October 2020) “Diagnostically” it’s a no go even for those with online dealer tool access. I’m not 100% if it’s only 170’s but have heard 105ps models are not affected – You can check your ECU type – there is a label on it & its behind the passenger headlamp. If you’ve a SID211 it’s easy to remove any limiter & anything else is not.
Bogdan ( I love that name ) had me remove the immobiliser from his 2005 Euro 3 Daily. It still wouldn’t start. Fuel was getting to the high pressure pump on the engine but no further. He sourced a Chinese 45 Ebay valve & van ran but cut out under 1000rpm. He then sourced a £68 quid genuine one from Coastal Motorhomes & it ran perfectly. So buy Bosch from a good source as the fakes continue to flood the part market.
Part Number may be
MANUFACTURE PART NO: 0928400826
CROSS REF NO: 71772310
Some handy Iveco Immobiliser & fuse info is held on this page:
Had a 2012 100ps FWD MK7 in, that would hit 2.6 Bar boost, then go into limp mode, then push the gas twice & its Ok again for a minute. No DTC’s were set. To cut a long & very boring story short, the new turbo was actually recon & the dowel that locates the VNT mechanism into the turbine body was missing & it was mis-aligned. a part of a broken 3.5mm drill bill stepped in a dowel & all was good. Actuator wise, the G number was G32 & this was for a front wheel drive, i’m told the rear wheel drive actuators differ in the arm cam position or sweep., so possibly, a rear wheel drive utilises a different G number.
Its a manual process on these, as the full ECU controlled immobilser system was fitted from about 2002.
Thanks for your time and help with my 2000 Iveco 2.8.
The issue was resolved by removing the immobiliser and rewiring the stop solenoid.
I will put together some info but in case you get any other enquiries, a couple of quick points.
Removing the immobiliser is really easy with a Dremel tool, cutting disks and grinding head. Took only a few minutes.
The original power to the immobiliser can be utilised to provide power for the stop solenoid without adding a new switch/wire, and continues to work from the ignition.