Iveco Daily MK4 Tacho Removal- Engine RPM limited to 2500rpm

Motorhome owner Tony C from Essex, recently bought a Iris Bus conversion, & the engine wouldn’t rev over 2500rpm , I supplied a BSI ( Body Systems Interface ) ( Body ECU ) that had no tacho from factory & all was good , alternative is having tacho switched off in existing BSI, but in this case , we had already removed the immobiliser from the engine ECU, so any BSI could be installed & tried , without any programming ( as long as gearbox type matched ) . . That’s a really shortened version of what actually happened over a few months , as it was a non runner , then a runner once immobiliser was removed but with 9 engine fault codes , so many things happened 1st resolving faults one by one with ECU swaps, DPF & EGR deletes etc . Finally though Tony said it could only be a faulty tacho now & he was right. T sign tacho missing message was gone from dash & mileage showed correctly, once the new BSI was installed.

Is my Transit a Euro 4 , or a Euro 5 ?

From the end of 2011, Euro 5 came out ( in the UK) with DPF, & were available in 100, 125 140 & 155ps. All same engine , bar differences for RWD or FWD fitment. The ECU software only determines power level. Pre end 2011, DPF was an option, very rarely taken up on UK vans. Best to disregard 61 plate / 12 plate when deciding if Euro 4 or 5, as either can be on either plate, its based truly on build date. More common on European ones. In Australia you can find 2012 on sort of Euro 5 spec, ( same Euro 5 base engines) but without DPF’s!

Euro 4 came out mid 2006 & are found in 85, 100, 115, 140 & 200ps, most have no DPF, although it was an option. turbo & injectors differ on these MK7, (pre 2012 ) DPF equipped models.

LDV Maxus 2.5 Oil Starvation ( leading to engine failure)

Our friends over on the LDV Maxus spares & repair group on facebook have discovered a flaw in the engine’s oil circulation system, resulting in the fairly common premature engine failure.

Here is the post: (& there is a link to a video at the end )

Regarding the oil pressure system in your LDV Maxus Vehicle.
It has been brought to light by Tomasz Kulak and his work with the VM Montori engines ( these are in ALL the LDV Maxus Vehicles & The london Black Cabs and also Chrysler Jeep and some others)
In summary, the fault lies in the oil pressure system, and it’s failure to maintain the oil supply to the whole of engine and its moving parts, does not stem from the obvious – the pump. But from 3 little oil seals and those overheat and they fracture, causing the drop in oil pressure which results in the big end bearings failing and many other parts too. It is insidious in its nature as it is slowing happening without any obvious signs. There have been cases where owners have had a flickering oil light and then within a relatively short time the big end bearing sieze. This is normally terminal due to the expense. But there is a fix – and this will restore the FULL oil pressure resulting in lower enigine noise and smoother running. It involves removing the sump and a metal plate inside that holds these 3 oil seals in place under pressure maintaining oil flow pressure. The NEW seals are rated to 700c degrees and are high quality Silcone – The original LDV Maxus ones are a lot lower temperature rated, and a Nitrile Based material. You can get your own gasket or buy one from Tomasz Kulak with the seals or without and you can also use a silcone sealant in place of the normal gasket – if you wanted to. This job can be carried out by any competent person or Tomasz is willing to do the job for you coupled with a oil change and service. Contact him for prices and info. Below is a link to the video showing you exactly what the issue is and how to cure it. Also Tosmasz’s website is below showing what he does and the engines and vehicles he works on – he is fully mobile.
Tomasz Kulak (member on here) Phone: +44 7399 399403

Have a look at the video in this link

Ford Transit MK7 – Central Locking Not Working From the Key

A commmon enough complaint & usually the fix isnt too involved.

Let me guess – you have just one battered key so no way to verify if the key itself is at fault by trying your spare ?

Does key in drivers door operate central locking still ? Yes ? so the central locking itself is working. The physical key turn triggers the BCM ( Body Controle Module ) to unlock / lock doors.

The keyfob operation, relies on a good key, receiver, & wiring.

Often the keyfob’s ( blue 3 button remote ) buttons switches fail, & there are chaps on ebay that will test & fix the key with new switches & a cover etc for 30 quid or so. Maybe get a mobile locksmith to test the keys buttons 1st or supply a replacement / spare.

The key receiver is behind the headlining , front & centre, its only job is to recieve the keys buttons signal for central locking purposes , these can fail. Consider a used one as they rarely fail so used is a safe bet.

If all above checks out then test wiring (for continuity) from BCM to receiver.

Iveco Daily Diagnostic Tools

Iveco are more difficult to diagnose , as they use a Fiat/Iveco specific communication protocol – many tools do not connect to them, or should do but dont work right, or only work on some models. & for some MK6, or Euro 5A you will probably need SGW ( security gateway) access , you ‘d be looking at premium tools, in the 5k range to get coverage on these, even DTC reading . Additionally you’ll probably not get classic P****-** codes , but numbers from Iveco’s own code system. Finally you have a 38 pin connector on pre 2007 MK3 & older vans. ( you can buy an adapter for this to convert to the normal 16pin OBD2, china specials for £10 or so sometimes work or go HERE for a good one ).

Vantuner does not sell program’s or adapters but here are some of the the choices for Windows based adapters / programs :

Maxi-ECU – Maxi make an Iveco Specific program , its a genuine quality, with an industry leading ugly program interface that reads fault codes & live data on some & little else. £150

Delphi DS150E – a great £2k tool originally but chinese clones of varying quality can be had for about 50 quid upwards. Does way more than Maxi, for example DPF reset & regen. Installation is not easy for most due to the nature of the needed cracked software. Not working on MK3 ( most pre 2007) on my tests & generally buggy due to the cracked software. But if you’re really comfortable with Windows software program installations , worth a shot for the money.

FiCom – £425 a genuine & good spec tool that covers codes, live data & limited coding & resets but support is bad, their 16pin to 38pin OBD adapter looks good . see here :

Others –

Autel Android Based Tablets – from about £500, menu system is little confusing without training ( (some Italian terms used in vehicle selection) , seems OK on earlier van’s ( tested on MK3 & MK4 engine ECU’s, but doesn’t cover early big ECU ( Bosch MS6.3 ) #0281001537 from around 2002 . On a 2016 2.3, DPF & oil reset didn’t work & auto VIN ID failed.

Iveco Easy – what the dealers use – the best you can get but the tool is maybe £2300 + . There is however one Lithuanian ebayer that sells the interface for £1400 & then you’ll need the software, which seems to be readily available, maybe from that same Lithuanian chap.

Program limitations – all of these listed , like most diag tools, copy over the “protocols” from the dealer tools to varying levels of success. The genuine Iveco ” E.A.S.Y” tool, is pretty limited coding wise, but is the only really effective tool for in in depth diagnosis.

Bet advice for the home mechanic is to buy Maxi ( 2004 onwards vans only ) & if it doesn’t work on your your van, or do what you need to do , consider Ficom, then the others.

The Zener Diode Trick

If you’ve a Transit, for example a MK6 (2000.5 -2006.5 )& have raised boost via adjusting the wastegate, or have fitted a bigger turbo & have a model that has a boost ( MAP) sensor mounted on the intercooler as opposed to bulkhead mounted one, you’ll have found out that the limiter in the ECU program itself isn’t known ( cant be raised ) so one option is to fit a zener ziode on the boost sensor circuit to limit what boost the ECU actually see’s. Its a trick, & a good one at that. (If you’ve a bulkhead mounted boost sensor try disconnecting the silicon pipe that feeds it – that works fine on some ECU software versions & results in no boost on others

The theory is this – the zener diode rejects any voltage level up to the desired amount & bleeds off to ground any excess voltage. Let’s say on idle the return signal voltage is 2V, & at max boost before Ecu starts limiting is 4.4V, with a 4.4V zener in circuit any excess voltage between 4.4V & 5V is fed to ground so the Ecu only sees a max of 4.4V so fuel isn’t limited when boost exceeds original max & boost & consequently fuel quantity continues to rise. Without the zener diode fitted , the higher boost will mean higher voltage on the signal return wire than the ECU program allows & fuelling will be reduced ( in order to reduce boost to an “acceptable” level ) & you’ll get a subtle limp mode, negating any gains. 
Many MK6 have a 3 wire MAP ( boost) sensor-

Signal In (5V)

Signal Return (0-5V,  peaking towards 5V at max boost) 

Some MK6 have a 4 wire sensor, so is a TMAP not MAP sensor, the added T meaning temperature

One pin will be “NTC” , this is the thermistor output, for temperature reading. On some Bosch sensors its pin 2 , if you connect a multimeter probe to each pin in turn & other probe to ground, you can work out with engine running which is temp & which is boost by revving it up. A common pinut is as follows but verify yours to be sure

Pin 1 : Sensor Ground

Pin 2 : Temperature Signal “NTC”

Pin 3 : +5v in

Pin 4 : Map Signal Return

Try a 4.3V 1/4W or 4.7V 1/4W / 1/2 w or 1w Zener or measure the voltage at which once breached, the ECU cuts the fuel, then choose a zener of a value that has a breakdown voltage at that level to try as a starting point. Searching for zener diodes can be overwhelming as are the are 1000’s but search for this or similar “300pcs 30 Values (2V~39V) 1/2W 0.5W Assorted Zener Diodes Assortment Kit” (ebay link) & you ‘ll see you can get assortments with common useful values. You might find you need a 4.8V zener & you ‘l have to buy that separately as in reality the effectiveness of the circuit hack isn’t so clear cut, & a foolproof zener circuit includes a resistor to limit current , making the “breakdown voltage” more accurate & consistent but for simplicity, in most cases , just a zener alone will work . You’re attempting to limit a voltage range of between 4-5V so get some in that range ( EG: 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9) & experiment. Its much easier than you think , once you have some measurements & tests done.  If you buy an assortment of zeners & see them labelled as 4V6, thats a 4.6volt type.

Zener Diode

The side with the line on the zener needs to be connected to Signal Return & the other to the Ground wire.

This page has a more detailed explanation of the zener trick

Let me know your results & comments by posting below & i’ll update the post for more model specific details.