Over on Iveco Forums there are some useful guides for the Iveco Daily
170ps Euro6d (6d-TEMP) Tippers that use the SID212evo engine ECU have a factory limiter set about 65mph, it’s due to what Ford call “Whole Life Testing Protocol” Recent emissions scandals really focused regulators on emissions after delivery is made & it’s calculated that in a year or 3 once engine & tyres are worn etc the emissions on affected models may just go over the prescribed limit. Normally one would hack the engine ECU to kill the limit but because no remapping equipment can access the Continental SID212/212evo engine ECU file yet it’s not yet possible. ( October 2020) “Diagnostically” it’s a no go even for those with online dealer tool access. I’m not 100% if it’s only 170’s but have heard 105ps models are not affected – You can check your ECU type – there is a label on it & its behind the passenger headlamp. If you’ve a SID211 it’s easy to remove any limiter & anything else is not.
Bogdan ( I love that name ) had me remove the immobiliser from his 2005 Euro 3 Daily. It still wouldn’t start. Fuel was getting to the high pressure pump on the engine but no further. He sourced a Chinese 45 Ebay valve & van ran but cut out under 1000rpm. He then sourced a £68 quid genuine one from Coastal Motorhomes & it ran perfectly. So buy Bosch from a good source as the fakes continue to flood the part market.
Part Number may be
MANUFACTURE PART NO: 0928400826
CROSS REF NO: 71772310
Some handy Iveco Immobiliser & fuse info is held on this page:
Back to normal more or less. If you’re sending an ECU in , please wash it off with at least soap & water. They are water proof, & disinfecting it is easier this end if it arrives clean. If visiting , I disinfect the keys & door handles & steering wheel etc before i start , & again , if they are clean to start with, that would save some time. For a quick answer to any queries please text or whatsapp me on 07956 555 666.
Had a 2012 100ps FWD MK7 in, that would hit 2.6 Bar boost, then go into limp mode, then push the gas twice & its Ok again for a minute. No DTC’s were set. To cut a long & very boring story short, the new turbo was actually recon & the dowel that locates the VNT mechanism into the turbine body was missing & it was mis-aligned. a part of a broken 3.5mm drill bill stepped in a dowel & all was good. Actuator wise, the G number was G32 & this was for a front wheel drive, i’m told the rear wheel drive actuators differ in the arm cam position or sweep., so possibly, a rear wheel drive utilises a different G number.
Its a manual process on these, as the full ECU controlled immobilser system was fitted from about 2002.
Thanks for your time and help with my 2000 Iveco 2.8.
The issue was resolved by removing the immobiliser and rewiring the stop solenoid.
I will put together some info but in case you get any other enquiries, a couple of quick points.
Removing the immobiliser is really easy with a Dremel tool, cutting disks and grinding head. Took only a few minutes.
The original power to the immobiliser can be utilised to provide power for the stop solenoid without adding a new switch/wire, and continues to work from the ignition.
March 2020 – Vantuner now offers a BCM cloning service on Ford Transit MK7’s , Euro 4 & 5 from 2006.5 to 2014. Send a faulty BCM along with a cheap used one & i’ll copy over all memories , making your new BCM plug & play. Or if you have a B & need cruise control, send your B along with a C or D & i’ll copy over all thats needed & activate cruise. Additional key’s can be added also.
Look on your turbo’s electrical wiring loom connector & you ‘ll see 1 or more broken wires, fix them & the turbo will start working again. The adblue also. You’ll need to do a manual ( static) regen on the DPF system if the system has been at fault for more than say 50 miles. Ford have identified an issue on this connector design & copper wire quality & have released an updated part #2205233 which has a more effective exit angle from the connector. The copper used is no longer from recycled washing machines either, its now the good stuff, hand mined by Namibian child slaves. This wiring issue alone will give rise to adblue faults , with no corresponding DTC’s
1st pic show’s the area of interest.
Temporary fix on the white wire ( soldered & heat shrinked ) while i am awaiting the upgraded part & you can see the blue & also the slate coloured one starting to fail also. Final pic is the upgraded part , which has it’s wiring exiting the connector at a right angle via a plastic leg.
& finally a long video saying exactly what i have already said here.
I saw a van today for cruise activation that had the aftermarket switches fitted, which is possible by cutting out a section of the steering wheel rubberised lower section. The cruise didn’t work after activation. Customer said he had to cut away part of the plug & was then faced with 2 choices on how to plug in the connector. Had no time to check the work beyond measuring the resistance of the switch circuit. It measured 2.1Megohms, thats about 2 million Ohms more than what it should be. Pressing the various cruise buttons had no effect. I’ll update the blog if the customer get’s to the bottom of it, but for now , the previous advice still applies – get yourself a Transit wheel with buttons from a high spec transit , or choose one from a CMAX MK1 ( 2003-2007). Try Breakerlink.com if ebay yields no result on your search. & stop looking for Focus MK2 wheels, as most are incompatible, which is annoying as they look 10 times better.
No fault codes , just low power overall. Its the turbo actuator apparently according to a very helpful customer, who gave me the report from Ford after i had a look & after little head scratching declared it to be a warranty job. . .I’ll measure boost while driving if another comes in with the same symptoms. Every day’s a school day as they say 😉