MK7 , 2.2 or 2.4 TDCI , Euro 4 , 06 to 61 plate , so mid to late 2006 up till the end of 2011. Hunting / uneven idle / unstable tickover at idle when hot , cold or randomly cutting out. Diesel knock especially when cold.
It’s not your EGR despite what Dave’s mate said, its your fuel pressure – its out of spec. Watch the pressure under live data & you’ll see it fluctuating in concert with the hunting or even sitting way higher than the 230bar (+/-15%) target.. Wear in the injection system’s components in combination with old /early software in the engine ECU causes this. Get a pump & pilot learn carried out & if the process fails two new valves ( PRV+SCV) will be required followed by a PCM ( engine ecu ) update & re-run of the learns.. If you fancy doing the repair yourself or fitting the valves prior to the software update & recalibration work ( learns) the PRV’s original part number is 6C1Q-9H321-AB & SCV 6C1Q-9358-AB, the PRV is a PRV ( pressure relief valve ) but the SCV , (suction control valve) is also know as a vapour relief valve or inlet metering valve..
Notes on buying the parts
Genuine parts are always the best option on this engine. But at £350+ it’s worth discussing the alternatives.
Highly recommended , is a genuine Ford item, part number 1497165, Vospers were selling them at £102 plus the ride on 11/11/2022 so look their website up. Perry’s Ford Ebay shop sell genuine stuff usually at a slight discount although today’s( 15.01.21) price ( £155) seem’s to have gone up astronomically https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-TRANSIT-TT9-FUEL-RAIL-PRESSURE-LIMITER-REGULATOR-VALVE-1497165-GENUINE-OE/323957755928?fits=Model%3ATransit&hash=item4b6d631018:g:mvQAAOSwq-BeNBU5
There are a plethora of aftermarket PRV’s available, starting from under a tenner & most are rubbish. Yes some work but it’s hassle & waste of time generally to try anything other than a genuine valve. I’ve had a look at the Denso packaged ones , the ones that come with a spigot attached, & the piston wasnt even level so these are faked as well. One option is a “PSA Genuine Control Valve fuel pressure 1920NL”. Half the price or so of the Ford supplied valve & the same unit / same factory. ( Relay & Boxer from about 2010 used the exact same engine) . “”citroenservices” on ebay have stock from time to time , contact them direct if the following link shows no item / no stock. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402084612164
Identifying a real one – look for the engraved part number on the side of the valve, zoom in & you’ll see the engraving type is made of dots, these are not faked as yet but many sellers use the genuine picture & send a fake valve with or laser etched part numbers.
The 3 part kits on ebay , that contain a rail pressure sensor, PRV & SCV, contain a fake 10 quid PRV & because of this are ( usually ) total crap. Look on any Facebook group or Forum & you’ll find people who’ve fitted non genuine PRV’s etc & the 1st question members ask is what PRV did you fit. (Part numbers are for all Euro 4 Transits apart from 200ps 3.2 which have a differing PRV part number 7C16-9H321-AA ). Never change the pressure sensor if it looks original unless you have a specific sensor DTC & have verified checked its wiring back to ECU. P0190 DTC usually means wiring fault, if you have this , get a used rail complete with original pressure sensor.
On the SCV, there are Denso boxed ones that seem to be work OK. They are all fake however . Check out ebay listings & you’ll need buyers can specify there own brand name on the ” Denso ” box’s that used to say just Denso so its harder to find one now but they seem to work. . If you fancy trying a really cheap one, you’ve a chance it will work as factory / quality does not seem as critical , like on PRV’s. There is failure rate right out of the box on all of these Denso boxed units so if its not idling or you have starting issues after fitting, try another. I hear reports of the fakes failing prematurely as well. Not in my experience but certainly possible.
Pump & Pilot Learns
Best advice is always replace both valves, update engine ECU ( PCM) software, reset oil service history, reset both prv counters, then run the pump & pilot learns. But these engine are getting older now , & are likely to have old or poorly reconditioned injectors, or the wrong injectors, cheap-ass owners etc etc so there’s no hard & fast rules anymore. Just pay attention to getting a good PRV & SCV in at the very least., then attempt some learns, & if you get issues, consider doing it all in sequence , the proper way.
If your EGR is deleted, depending on how it was done, this can prevent the pilot learn from completing as can an EGR that’s starting to fail. Get the EGR switched back on ( & a good used or new one plugged in & hanging temporarily ) re-try learns then re-delete EGR once it’s all running sweet.
If you have used this guide & the fix isn’t successful your injectors themselves are probably at fault . Perform a leak off test ( this will only highlight really bad ones ) or better still get the injectors bench tested by someone who isn’t overly interested in selling you new ones .
Clean out your inlet – even on an engine making good standard power , cleaning the inlet manifold & cylinder head intake ports ( what you can access of them anyway ) liberates free power & economy… works especially well on Mk6 Models but applies to all diesel transits to date…
Its a filthy process though with all the goo from the crankcase breather & egr systems feeding into it & you will need a set of (manifold to head), gaskets , they come as 8 or 10 blue or red oblong shaped silicon seals … cheap Mondeo 2.0/2.2 2001-2006 ones are available as pattern parts from a company called BGM & are the exact same size & fitment, but most other pattern parts are shit & will leak.
EGR Blanking & Deleting replacing the flange gasket from the egr feed to egr valve with a blank ( unholed !) plate effectively stops the function of the egr valve.. blanking plates are available on ebay for £4.29 or so or just make one yourself. Not from a beer can though, you need something a little thicker ! this works great on Euro 3 (2000-2006) Transits & Transit Connects but on Euro 4 & later vans of either flavour it can affect low engine speed performance & throttle response & /or throw up an engine check light / MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) on the dash.. the odd van runs ok, depending on your ECU’s particular software version, but all will currently light the engine malfunction lamp ( check engine light).
An EGR delete software solution is available on all 2007 on Mk7 2.2,2.4 & 3.2 Transits & all Euro 4 Connect ( 2006 on ) which ends the problem once & for all & can add about .5 to 1mpg as well as making the van run crisper at up to 3000rpm..a great source for blanking plates is a seller on eBay called Bertye1958 , the plate you need for Mk7’s is this one “EGR Valve blanking plate FORD MK7 TRANSIT 2.2 2.4 tdci Land Rover Citroen relay”
Clean Your boost Sensor
On a Mk7 Transit, this sits in the inlet tract a little downstream of your vans EGR valve, its a Bosch unit, look for part number 6C11-9F479-AA or the revised AB version.. its easy to see on front or rear wheel drive vans. Once removed, a toothbrush & little petrol works fine on it.. it doubles as temperature sensor ( AIT2 ) so a clean one measures temp & boost pressure quicker, resulting in optimum performance. There’s a ceramic coated “bulb” in side with a bright yellow painted tip so toothbrush it till you start seeing the bulb at which point you can use a fine screwdriver to speed up the process..
Fit an intercooler – to 75ps 2.0 litre TDDI Transit ? unless your upgrading the turbo itself, or needing to tune beyond 100p, I wouldn’t bother .Of the few i have tested , having no IC doesn’t seem to be a limiting factor & is a pain as you ideally need a complete donor set of complete pipes to & from it due to differing MAP ( manifold absolute pressure) sensor & EGR valve ( exhaust gas recirculation ) positions…on 75ps 2.4 Transit TDDI,RWD its an easy mod as there’s a blanking pipe in place, the intercooler just inserts in place of that. Up your boost once fitted..
Up your Boost – some MK6 TDDI models ( all RWD & some FWD ) have adjustable wastegate actuating rods, shorten it & you have upped your boost, ( this increases the volume of the actuating pot at rest & increases the tension or preload on the pots diaphragm). There’s a little & useful gain to be had & its generally a safe thing to do ..try 1 turn & test, ( or measure boost) & if all feels good, increase half turn at a time… if you’ve a gauge/way of measuring, aim for 10% over stock reading & if not, between 1 & 2.5 turns is a guide.. . 85/110 Mk7’s have a adjustable rod, remove the vac pot mountings from comp housing & a circlip on the wastegate arm then adjust at your leisure remembering ( lots) more is not always better due to many factors, so get googling for a few hours prior to adjustment! For a good manual adjuster try the Sytec In Car model.
Fitting 115/120/125 turbo etc to a 75 or 90ps ? – If 25-30ps from a good remap isn’t enough , For ’02 ( digital dash ) onwards Vans , get an post 2002 ECU with part number DPC806 then any Turbo , pump & injectors from any 125/115/120 and you can fit these to a 75 or 90 2.4, & with a little tuning, you have 145ps or more If your van is an early one ( non digi dash , pre 2002) then you will need to do a digital clocks conversion ( dash loom & clocks) or rewire the original coolant temperature gauge. Your donor parts , (if a 120ps pre 2002,) may have come from a van with separate fuel lift pump so that will need to added as well or defeated in order for the conversion to work. … The 75/90 do have different timing chains & no piston cooling but no explosions have been reported to date. Also worth noting, the recommended conversion ( utilising digital dash post 2002 parts) requires a bulkhead mounted MAP ( Boost) sensor, not the intercooler mounted version, if thats the case on your existing engine you’ll need the loom from a later 125/115 also. If your thinking of just fitting the VP44 pump from a 115/120/125 note you’ll need the ECU as well as the 75/90 is fitted with a VP30 pump.
K&N type fiters – 44 quid , wash it once a year, then get 20 quid for it used once you have finished with it, thats free filtration ! i like them & they sweeten up the throttle response.. K&N make 2 filters for any MK6 plus RWD MK7’s, & one for Euro 5 2.2 FWD. For FWD Mk7’s Pipercross make a foam filter which sags significantly into the airbox once hot, this potentially make the foams “holes ” bigger & may reduce filtration level. They have no interest in fixing the bad design – avoid.
Millers Ecomax Fuel additive – buy a regular grade diesel , add a little Millers & you have a premium spec fuel for a quid fifty a tank 🙂 power, mpg & quietness of engine, are all enhanced, a little..
Genuine Fuel Filers ? is it worth using a genuine filter ? Yes as some TDCI use 5 micron, some 2 micron filtration.. when was the last time your plain white unbranded one specified that ? the wrong one for a TDCI, ( which fits the filter head just fine!) , will wear the Delphi & Denso common rail injectors quickly & using a 2 micron on a TDDI will result in lack of power.. Spending £30 quid or so ( correct at October 2023 ) saves the worry.
Brake Pad Warning Lamp Kill – Mk7 Transit
Brake pad warning light stuck on despite connections & pads being OK ? Locate the connector for the speedo binnacle & cut & connect Green Blue ( pad circuit) to Purple Black ( Earth), in the manner pictured. Wiring is correct for most MK7, but there are probably variables. In this case you’ll need to get an IPC ( clocks) wiring diagram from Ford , generated from your VIN, this service used to be available via Ford ETIS website. No i’m not so sure how to source one.
Slow TDDI MK6 +LDV Convoy?
Even a lowly 90ps should feel OK , but they can often feel dog slow now they are getting on for 20 years old & its usually fixable by working through this checklist & then remapping. All TDDI respond very well to mapping in the right hands if the basics engine is sound.
Here is a useful checklist
Check air filter isn’t wet or clogged / old.
Read engine fault codes & deal with any & all present codes
Make sure fuel filter is the correct one, MK7 plus other MK6 ones fit & only the correct one has the right filtration level, fit the wrong one & you can get a restriction in fuel. It’ll run OK but power will be down. Use genuine Ford one of the correct type. Undo your filter & if you see rust on top lip & its probably done over 20k. At this mileage & beyond they become restrictive.
Clean out your intake manifold , intake ports ( what you access of them ) & egr feed section ( just before the manifold itself) no need to clean EGR itself.
Verify no leaks on intake manifold – they are a 3 piece plastic bonded design & can leak, you will find soot on the section towards the lower rear where they split & maybe a whoosh sound when putting your foot down.
Connect a capable diag tool like Forscan & measure boost ( manifold absolute pressure ) it should be around 1 bar idling & revved up, maybe 1,4 to 1.5 bar. Under load ( driving up hill in a high gear with more gas pedal than is needed ) boost should peak at 70% or more than the base idling figure . Your diag tool may measure in Kpa, not bar, so divide it by 10 or just google say 185Kpa to Bar & you will get the number you need. If your not getting good boost ( & have no fault codes ) then turbo wastegate might be stuck, faulty, or you have a leak in the intake.
Sometimes a replacement injection pump or its PSG5 module results in lower power. Update the engine software using Ford IDS tool , this performs some kind of reset, or possibly the pump module firmware is updated, i’m not sure, but it has cured a few i have seen.
That’s it. Its very rarely anything else, injectors can block slowly over time but if its running & starting fine, they are unlikely to be causing the very low power.
A full delete is available on all 2006 on Euro 4 connects & later .
A K&N type replacement panel filter works well on all years& one filter fits all connects from 2003 to 2013..
On pre 2006 Euro 3 models the stock intercooler is angled, swap it for the later Euro 4 2007 onwards upright model for better cooling of the turbo’s gases.. the later one sits differently, more upright.. you will need the later return pipe from intercooler to manifold for sure & may have to extend / re-position the sensor that sits in the return pipe.. dead easy conversion though.
Connects breathe a little hot and restrictively, & a Focus Mk1 airbox lower section is deeper, & has more volume & comes with a cold air feed or snorkel that goes under the battery to the slam panel. Any tddi/tdci /Mk1 Focus airbox lower section will do & if the snorkel is missing , i believe they are inexpensive from new from Ford.. alternatively , on the stock airbox, remove its pigmy snorkel, open up the hole & fit a cold air feed made from some 3″ or 4″ ducting from that inlet point to the slam panel.
From a maintenance point of view, if the fuel filter isn’t shiny & newish looking , change it, these , like all fuel filters , get restrictive over time & will affect power…
Check the bulkhead mounted MAP ( boost ) sensors pipe & rubber elbows for carbon & cracking & the flexi pipes in & out of the intercooler, the metal rings wear the flexi section & oil seeps out.. silicon alternatives are available much cheaper than originals & you can choose Your colour 😉
It is like a different van totally, I can hold a higher gear down to 2000 rpm and below which was pretty much impossible before, seems much happier on CC on the motorway in 6th gear no hunting or having to change down a gear when hitting an incline. The above was the main gripe.
Acceleration is much better than before through the gears.
Can also change up gears earlier or skip gears if joining motorway Etc, but where’s the fun in that.
But a van to drive in London the above makes a difference in traffic.
Have only driven on Sunday to work in London fuel seems to be better but too early to tell for sure, trip is showing 270 miles done and 240 to empty but gauge is only just below halfway so seems like an improvement, I will report back some more when I have more miles into it, but not the reason for the remap so a bonus if it is better mpg.
Only one small minus, seems not as quick from say 70 / 80 mph to 100mph plus as the last MK7 van, but could be the fact that the gearing is so high or to do with the DPF not sure maybe you have an idea?
Not sure as only tried it once and may be in my head?
But apart from that wonderful so far so good thank you