MK7 , 2.2 or 2.4 TDCI , Euro 4 , 06 to 61 plate , so mid to late 2006 up till the end of 2011. Hunting / uneven idle / unstable tickover at idle when hot , cold or randomly cutting out. Diesel knock especially when cold.
Its not your EGR despite what Dave’s mate said, its your fuel pressure ! its out of spec. Watch the pressure under live data & you’ll see it fluctuating in concert with the hunting or even sitting way higher than the 230bar target.. Wear in the fuel system components in combination with old /early software in the engine ECU causes this. Get a pump & pilot learn carried out & if the process fails two new valves will be required followed by a PCM update & re-run of the learns..if the learns fail still then usually new injectors are needed. If you fancy doing the repair yourself or fitting the valves prior to visiting someone like me for the software update & recalibration work ( learns) the PRV’s original part number is 6C1Q-9H321-AB & SCV 6C1Q-9358-AB, the PRV is a PRV ( pressure relief valve ) but the SCV , (suction control valve) is also know as a vapour relief valve or inlet metering valve..
Notes on buying the parts
There are a plethora of PRV’s available, starting from under a tenner & most are rubbish. Yes some work but it’s hassle & waste of time generally to try anything other than a genuine valve. I’ve had a look at the Denso packaged ones , the ones that come with a spigot attached, & the piston wasnt even level so these are faked as well. Best option is currently a “PSA Genuine Control Valve fuel pressure 1920NL”. Half the price or so of the Ford supplied valve & the same unit / same factory as far as I can tell. Here is a link to the Peugeot Citroen item https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402084612164
Option B is genuine Ford item. Perry’s Ford Ebay shop sell genuine stuff usually at a slight discount although today’s( 15.01.21) price ( £155) seem’s to have gone up astronomically https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-TRANSIT-TT9-FUEL-RAIL-PRESSURE-LIMITER-REGULATOR-VALVE-1497165-GENUINE-OE/323957755928?fits=Model%3ATransit&hash=item4b6d631018:g:mvQAAOSwq-BeNBU5
As with all of these , look for the engraved part number on the side of the valve, the engraving type is made of dots, these are not faked as yet but many sellers use the genuine picture & send a fake valve.
The 3 part kits on ebay , that contain a rail pressure sensor, PRV & SCV, contain a fake 10 quid PRV & because of this are ( usually ) total crap. Look on any Facebook group or Forum & you’ll find people who’ve fitted non genuine PRV’s etc & the 1st question members ask is what PRV did you fit.
Pilot learn not completing but my Injectors are good ?
If your EGR is deleted, depending on how it was done, this can prevent the pilot learn from completing as can an EGR that’s starting to fail. Get the EGR switched back on ( & a good used / new one plugged in & hanging temporarily ) re-try learns then re-delete EGR once it’s all running sweet.
On the SCV, there are Denso boxed ones that seem to be OK. I used to use PF Jones for these but their supplier changed & its no longer a good source. Their fake PRV’s are to be avoided also. Look for this Nissan boxed part or A Denso Boxed item. The Denso boxes have some red writing usually.. If you fancy trying a cheap one, youve a good chance many will work, does not seem to be critical like the PRV situation.
Have a look at this picture, in ebay search for “Nissan 0360”
Tip – replacing one valve only or missing out a part of the 4 stage software process needed after fitting of valves will result in the problem not being cured completely & symptoms will return. (Part numbers are for all Euro 4 Transits apart from 200ps 3.2 which have a differing PRV part number 7C16-9H321-AA ).
Fuel system issues that aren’t dealt with can lead to piston crown overheating & that is suspected in the catastrophic engine failures that blights some (mainly 2.2) Mk7’s so dont put it off too long & don’t fit anything other than genuine Ford or Denso parts ( be careful on ebay as some valve sellers tend to bullshit about their fake items describing them as genuine or OE or original etc. ) The fake valves i have seen have wrong thickness brass washers, different piston length, & Transit Part Centre ( Bounds Green London ) were selling cleaned up / resprayed used ones as new at one point ! You are unlikely to get the fuel system dialled in with anything other than original parts. If the above fix isn’t successful your injectors themselves are probably too worn.. Perform a leak off test or better still send the injectors to Panda Diesel in Hampshire for a good honest bench tested assessment .
Clean out your inlet – even on an engine making good standard power , cleaning the inlet manifold & cylinder head intake ports ( what you can access of them anyway ) liberates free power & economy… works especially well on Mk6 Models but applies to all diesel transits to date…
Its a filthy process though with all the goo from the crankcase breather & egr systems feeding into it & you will need a set of (manifold to head), gaskets , they come as 8 or 10 blue or red oblong shaped silicon seals … cheap Mondeo 2.0/2.2 2001-2006 ones are available as pattern parts from a company called BGM & are the exact same size & fitment..
EGR Blanking & Deleting replacing the flange gasket from the egr feed to egr valve with a blank ( unholed !) plate effectively stops the function of the egr valve.. blanking plates are available on ebay for £4.29 or so or just make one yourself. Not from a beer can though, you need something a little thicker ! this works great on Euro 3 (2000-2006) Transits & Transit Connects but on Euro 4 & later vans of either flavour it can affect low engine speed performance & throttle response & /or throw up an engine check light / MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) on the dash.. the odd van runs ok, depending on your ECU’s particular software version, but all will currently light the engine malfunction lamp ( check engine light).
An EGR delete software solution is now available on all 2007 on Mk7 2.2,2.4 & 3.2 Transits & all Euro 4 Connect ( 2006 on ) which ends the problem once & for all & can add about .5 to 1mpg as well as making the van run crisper at up to 3000rpm..a great source for blanking plates is a seller on eBay called Bertye1958 , the plate you need for Mk7’s is this one “EGR Valve blanking plate FORD MK7 TRANSIT 2.2 2.4 tdci Land Rover Citroen relay”
Clean Your boost Sensor
On a Mk7 Transit, this sits in the inlet tract a little downstream of your vans EGR valve, its a Bosch unit, look for part number 6C11-9F479-AA or the revised AB version.. its easy to see on front or rear wheel drive vans. Once removed, a toothbrush & little petrol works fine on it.. it doubles as temperature sensor ( AIT2 ) so a clean one measures temp & boost pressure quicker, resulting in optimum performance. There’s a ceramic coated “bulb” in side with a bright yellow painted tip so toothbrush it till you start seeing the bulb at which point you can use a fine screwdriver to speed up the process..
Fit an intercooler – to 75ps 2.0 litre TDDI Transit ? unless your upgrading the turbo itself, or needing to tune beyond 100p, I wouldn’t bother .Of the few i have tested , having no IC doesn’t seem to be a limiting factor & is a pain as you ideally need a complete donor set of complete pipes to & from it due to differing MAP ( manifold absolute pressure) sensor & EGR valve ( exhaust gas recirculation ) positions…on 75ps 2.4 Transit TDDI,RWD its an easy mod as theres a blanking pipe in place, the intercooler just inserts in place of that. Up your boost once fitted..
Up your Boost – some models have adjustable wastegate actuating rods, shorten it & you have upped your boost, ( this increases the volume of the actuating pot at rest & increases the tension or preload on the pots diaphragm).There’s a little & useful gain to be had & its generally a safe thing to do ..try 1 turn & test, ( or measure boost) & if all feels good, increase half turn at a time… if you’ve a gauge/way of measuring, aim for 10% over stock reading & if not, between 1 & 2.5 turns is a guide.. Universal Turbo’s do a nice hybridising service, either to your spec or a “just make it boost more” option for reasonable money – If your turbo’s output is controlled electronically however ,(TDCI 125,135, 140, 200) look for wires connected to it ! ) leave well alone… Universal may sell you an adjustable wastegate actuating rod / vac pot for your stock turbo, this would be far better than a bleed valve type solution as many are crap.. 85/110 Mk7’s have a adjustable rod, remove the vac pot mountings from comp housing & a circlip on the wastegate arm then adjust at your leisure remembering ( lots) more is not always better due to many factors, so get googling for a few hours prior to adjustment! For a good manual adjuster try the Sytec In Car model.
Fitting 115/120/125 turbo etc to a 75 or 90ps ? – If 25-30ps from a straight remap isn’t enough , For ’02 ( digital dash ) onwards Vans , get an post 2002 ECU with part number DPC806 then any Turbo , pump & injectors from any 125/115/120 and you can fit these to a 75 or 90 2.4, & with a little tuning, you have 145ps or so. If your van is an early one ( non digi dash , pre 2002) then you will need to do a digital clocks conversion ( dash loom & clocks) or rewire the original coolant temperature gauge. Your donor , (if pre 2002,) parts may have come from a van with separate fuel lift pump so that will need to added as well or defeated in order for the conversion to work. … The 75/90 do have different timing chains & no piston cooling but no explosions have been reported to date. Also worth noting, the recommended conversion ( utilising digital dash post 2002 parts) requires a bulkhead mounted MAP ( Boost) sensor, not the intercooler mounted version, if thats the case on your existing engine you’ll need the loom from a later 125/115 also. If your thinking of just fitting the VP44 pump from a 115/120/125 note you’ll need the ECU as well as the 75/90 is fitted with a VP30 pump.
K&N type fiters – 44 quid , wash it once a year, then get 20 quid for it used once you have finished with it, thats free filtration ! i like them & they sweeten up the throttle response.. K&N make 2 filters for any MK6 plus RWD MK7’s, & one for Euro 5 2.2 FWD. For FWD Mk7’s Pipercross make a foam filter which sags significantly into the airbox once hot, this potentially make the foams “holes ” bigger & may reduce filtration level. They have no interest in fixing the bad design – avoid.
Millers Ecomax Fuel additive – buy a regular grade diesel , add a little Millers & you have a premium spec fuel for a quid fifty a tank 🙂 power, mpg & quietness of engine, are all enhanced, a little..
Genuine Fuel Filers ? is it worth using a genuine filter ? Yes as some TDCI use 5 micron, some 2 micron filtration.. when was the last time your plain white unbranded one specified that ? the wrong one for a TDCI, a 10 micron one ( which fits the filter head just fine!) , will wear the Delphi & Denso common rail injectors quickly & using a 2 micron on a TDDI will result in lack of power.. Spending £30 quid fitted ( £18 filter only trade ) saves the worry.
Brake Pad Warning Lamp Kill – Mk7 Transit
Brake pad warning light stuck on despite connections & pads being OK ? Locate the connector for the speedo binnacle & cut & connect Green Blue ( pad circuit) to Purple Black ( Earth), in the manner pictured.
A full or partial delete is now available on all 2006 on Euro 4 connects .
A K&N type replacement panel filter works well on all years& one filter fits all connects from 2003 to 2013..
On pre 2006 Euro 3 models the stock intercooler is angled, swap it for the later Euro 4 2007 onwards upright model for better cooling of the turbo’s gases.. the later one sits differently, more upright.. you will need the later return pipe from intercooler to manifold for sure & may have to extend / re-position the sensor that sits in the return pipe.. dead easy conversion though.
Connects breathe a little hot and restrictively, & a Focus Mk1 airbox lower section is deeper, & has more volume & comes with a cold air feed or snorkel that goes under the battery to the slam panel. Any tddi/tdci /Mk1 airbox lower section will do & if the snorkel is missing , i believe they are inexpensive from new from Ford.. alternatively , on the stock airbox, remove its pigmy snorkel, open up the hole & fit a cold air feed made from some 3″ or 4″ ducting from that inlet point to the slam panel.
From a maintenance point of view, if the fuel filter isn’t shiny & newish looking , change it, these , like all fuel filters , get restrictive over time & will affect power…
Check the bulkhead mounted MAP ( boost ) sensors pipe & rubber elbows for carbon & cracking & the flexi pipes in & out of the intercooler, the metal rings wear the flexi section & oil seeps out.. silicon alternatives are available much cheaper than originals & you can choose Your colour 😉
It is like a different van totally, I can hold a higher gear down to 2000 rpm and below which was pretty much impossible before, seems much happier on CC on the motorway in 6th gear no hunting or having to change down a gear when hitting an incline. The above was the main gripe.
Acceleration is much better than before through the gears.
Can also change up gears earlier or skip gears if joining motorway Etc, but where’s the fun in that.
But a van to drive in London the above makes a difference in traffic.
Have only driven on Sunday to work in London fuel seems to be better but too early to tell for sure, trip is showing 270 miles done and 240 to empty but gauge is only just below halfway so seems like an improvement, I will report back some more when I have more miles into it, but not the reason for the remap so a bonus if it is better mpg.
Only one small minus, seems not as quick from say 70 / 80 mph to 100mph plus as the last MK7 van, but could be the fact that the gearing is so high or to do with the DPF not sure maybe you have an idea?
Not sure as only tried it once and may be in my head?
But apart from that wonderful so far so good thank you