Essentially, to get the speedo to read your mileage again once tacho is physically removed , you need to source & fit a bypass loom, available from Henry Ford himself. The part number is 3C1T-10B942-AA & the “finis”code is 4522300. Is the part still available ? if not , just 2 connectors appear to be linked in the grey tacho plug (yellow & white with purple tracer).
Back to normal more or less. If you’re sending an ECU in , please wash it off with at least soap & water. They are water proof, & disinfecting it is easier this end if it arrives clean. If visiting , I disinfect the keys & door handles & steering wheel etc before i start , & again , if they are clean to start with, that would save some time. For a quick answer to any queries please text or whatsapp me on 07956 555 666.
Had a 2012 100ps FWD MK7 in, that would hit 2.6 Bar boost, then go into limp mode, then push the gas twice & its Ok again for a minute. No DTC’s were set. To cut a long & very boring story short, the new turbo was actually recon & the dowel that locates the VNT mechanism into the turbine body was missing & it was mis-aligned. a part of a broken 3.5mm drill bill stepped in a dowel & all was good. Actuator wise, the G number was G32 & this was for a front wheel drive, i’m told the rear wheel drive actuators differ in the arm cam position or sweep., so possibly, a rear wheel drive utilises a different G number.
Its a manual process on these, as the full ECU controlled immobilser system was fitted from about 2002.
Thanks for your time and help with my 2000 Iveco 2.8.
The issue was resolved by removing the immobiliser and rewiring the stop solenoid.
I will put together some info but in case you get any other enquiries, a couple of quick points.
Removing the immobiliser is really easy with a Dremel tool, cutting disks and grinding head. Took only a few minutes.
The original power to the immobiliser can be utilised to provide power for the stop solenoid without adding a new switch/wire, and continues to work from the ignition.
March 2020 – Vantuner now offers a BCM cloning service on Ford Transit MK7’s , Euro 4 & 5 from 2006.5 to 2014. Send a faulty BCM along with a cheap used one & i’ll copy over all memories , making your new BCM plug & play. Or if you have a B & need cruise control, send your B along with a C or D & i’ll copy over all thats needed & activate cruise. Additional key’s can be added also.
Look on your turbo’s electrical wiring loom connector & you ‘ll see 1 or more broken wires, fix them & the turbo will start working again. The adblue also. You’ll need to do a manual ( static) regen on the DPF system if the system has been at fault for more than say 50 miles. Ford have identified an issue on this connector design & copper wire quality & have released an updated part #2205233 which has a more effective exit angle from the connector. The copper used is no longer from recycled washing machines either, its now the good stuff, hand mined by Namibian child slaves. This wiring issue alone will give rise to adblue faults , with no corresponding DTC’s
1st pic show’s the area of interest.
Temporary fix on the white wire ( soldered & heat shrinked ) while i am awaiting the upgraded part & you can see the blue & also the slate coloured one starting to fail also. Final pic is the upgraded part , which has it’s wiring exiting the connector at a right angle via a plastic leg.
& finally a long video saying exactly what i have already said here.
I saw a van today for cruise activation that had the aftermarket switches fitted, which is possible by cutting out a section of the steering wheel rubberised lower section. The cruise didn’t work after activation. Customer said he had to cut away part of the plug & was then faced with 2 choices on how to plug in the connector. Had no time to check the work beyond measuring the resistance of the switch circuit. It measured 2.1Megohms, thats about 2 million Ohms more than what it should be. Pressing the various cruise buttons had no effect. I’ll update the blog if the customer get’s to the bottom of it, but for now , the previous advice still applies – get yourself a Transit wheel with buttons from a high spec transit , or choose one from a CMAX MK1 ( 2003-2007). Try Breakerlink.com if ebay yields no result on your search. & stop looking for Focus MK2 wheels, as most are incompatible, which is annoying as they look 10 times better.
No fault codes , just low power overall. Its the turbo actuator apparently according to a very helpful customer, who gave me the report from Ford after i had a look & after little head scratching declared it to be a warranty job. . .I’ll measure boost while driving if another comes in with the same symptoms. Every day’s a school day as they say 😉
Well here is a 1st , a 75ps Connect MK2. I have only done 95 & 115ps versions up till now but am pleased to say the 75 makes the same power as the 95, I.E 120ps. Hugely improved. 115ps models will make about 133ps, & the differences in engine hardware are the reason. I have lost my notes but Turbo & DPF are the culprits from what i recall from studying Fords’s excellent Microcat parts system when the Mk2 came out..
Well it’s Christmas again & vantuner still isn’t giving a discount, but it is easier to book as less owners are getting work done this month. As for general news, new vehicles covered etc, there is almost none but i have worked out an easy ( cheaper) way for speed limiter removal for late model Corsa D speed limiters, of about 2011 vintage, just before that real ugly bastard fiat doblo clone version was released.
Need more power ? more sarcasm ? call or whats-app me on 07956 555 666. Office hours, monday to saturday.