Postal Remaps

 

Postal Tuning & Speed Limiter Removal & ECU Cloning & Immobiliser Delete

Remove your ecu, post it to me, I will tune or delimit / clone it  / delete its EGR valve, de-immobilise it etc , & post it back to you usually the same day. Put it back in – reconnect your battery & off you go. No need to travel or wait in etc & it’s usually cheaper than a regular on site ECU work !

With the postal method , for tuning , obviously I am not able to do a health check on your van or to tweak the map immediately but the results have been consistently good & feedback I have received has been excellent .. & you’re always welcome to post it back for adjustment if required or visit me after for fine tuning at a discounted cost.

Many cars & van ecu’s can be tuned this way so the service is ideal for non UK customers or those in the UK are too far away for an on-site tune..

I ‘ve priced the postal remap tuning service competitively  from  £200 to compete with the bargain basement “i can remap anything” chancers who load up generic guesswork files from some bedroom entrepreneur , so this postal method allows you to access professional ECU services  for a very low cost… this also allows you to avoid the pitfalls of crude ebay tuning box fantasists.. Immobiliser delete & van speed limiter removal are a vantuner specialty..

Its cheaper by post as in many cases it takes a lot less time to tune an ECU on the bench and can be fitted into & or on  top of  my normal day…

Many popular cars & vans made after about year  ‘2000 can be tuned by post.

EG – All Mk6 & MK7 , MK7.5 (Transits, ‘2000 to current 2014 models, engine size 2000, 2200, 2400 & 3200cc models including 85, 100, 110, 115, 120, 125, 130, 140, & 200ps versions, , Transit Connects, Mercedes Sprinters,VW LT’s later VW T4’s & all VW LT 1997 on , all T5, most T6 < Ducato’s , Relay’s. Iveco Daily , Crafters , plus most other popular vans.

ECU Removal & Re-Fitting – Transits

On Mk6 Transits, (’00-06) the ECU is accessed under the bonnet, on the right-hand side of the bulkhead up near the coolant tank. Held by two 10mm hex head nuts, one either side, and one 10mm hex bolt in the centre, that secures the wiring loom connector plug. Disconnect the battery 1st.

Remove the loom connector bolt 1st, pull out the wiring loom connecting plug & push it to one side, then remove the two nuts, followed by a rubber gasket & it will pull out. The threads that the two nuts live on get corroded, so clean & oil them prior to removal.

When you refit the ECU, be careful to line up the loom connector dead square to the unit & push it home so pins are aligned prior to tightening, after refitting & reconnecting the battery you may need to enter the radio code and if you dont have it, let me know the radio serial number & i will calculate it for you. ( on standard ford radios )

Here is a typical ID sticker for TDDI Visteon ECU’s (your numbers/ letters will differ as this ones from a TD Escort Van) make a note of yours or take pic before sending.

TROT ( BIG BOLD) this is what Ford call the ecu’s  “catchword”

DPC-510  – The Visteon ECU Type

97AB-12A650-AA  –  Fords part number for the hardware

tddi_visteon_ecu

Mk7 up to 2014 from  2006.5,  Under bonnet, far right, look for 3 chunky wiring connectors leading into a  6x6x2″ aluminium box.. That’s your ECU…theres often 1 or 2 anti-theft  / swap security bolts to defeat that protect the connector plugs..

Disconnect your battery before you start work removing the ECU.

On 2006.5 to 2012 loosen the coolant bottle & push it to one side. Use a regular size hacksaw or dremel  to cut a slot in the security bolt that secures the cover of the ECU wiring connector. File out the slot a little, insert a flat screwdriver & remove the bolt. (I used a stumpy). The ECU then just unbolts after you have unclipped the 3 wiring block connectors. I will send you a new bolt with your ECU, this is an original ford bolt , which has a star drive head, you can fully tighten it & break the head off automatically, the ECU is then secure again… which would slow down any theft attempt that involves an ECU swap ! on 2012 on, simply drill out the 2 shear bolts.

Keep a note of the ECU ID numbers from the sticker or just take a photo of it…

Ford Connects

On TDDI models the main engine ECU that you need to send is under the driver’s foot-well carpet / inner “A” post on right hand drive vans, near your accelerator pedal – disconnect the battery first, unplug and unattach the ECU and leave battery disconnected till after ECU is reinstalled.

On TDCI 75 & 90ps Euro 3 Connects, Its in the same place as on TDDI’s – pull the ecu away from its mounting clip, & you will see a security cover on the wiring connector end. An easy way of removing the 1 security bold that holds this cover is a mini angle grinder, the type with 4 inch blades… you can then easily remove the wiring connector. Or get a friend or vice to hold the ECU steady while you use a hacksaw on it.

Euro 4 Connects  – 110ps  / 75ps/ 90ps 2006 on , the ECU is in the drivers side inner wing recess, behind the splash guard. easily removed once wheel is off – grind off one security bolt & the Ecu effectively drops down.

With all ECU’s sent by post, make a note of the ID numbers from it prior to sending.

VW LT46 & LT35 tuning or speed limiter removal by post

The LT can have its speed limiter removed by post – the ECU on 2.8 litre models is located in the interior, behind a plastic panel that the ashtray clips into – remove ashtray, remove blanking panel below, remove screw that is hidden behind. Pull up the rubber “carpet” to expose on each lower edge, one screw each side of the plastic panel to remove, the plastic panel will then pull out and you can get the ECU out easily once removed. Call if you are unsure of the way the clips work on the wiring plugs. Look at the pics below but note, on earlier 2.5’s open the bonnet and remove the headlamp & indicator – the ECU lives there and it just unclips.  Look at the pics below for the 2.8.

isuzu_2
A 125TDCI Transit Delphi ECU with its pants down via  on my bench during something called background debugging mode..

125tdci_transit_ecu

ECU Cloning

Many ecu’s can be cloned , if you suspect you have a faulty ECU or a faulty immobiliser  , get a used one & send it to me with your original, I will clone all the software over including VIN, & key and immobilser data etc. This is a very low cost alternative to getting a brand new ECU. For immobiliser removal just send me your existing ECU.

UK Postage & Packing ( by Royal Mail)

If sending from the UK , send it by Royal Mail Special Delivery to  Vantuner, P.O Box 430, Park Way,  Ruislip, HA4 4GB, (Royal Mail only, the PO Box can’t accept mail from couriers) please let me know once you have sent it. Its a next working day service & works really well.

Shipping via a courier or from outside UK

Vantuner’s workshop address is provided on request  as P.O Boxes cant receive parcels from outside of the UK or from UK couriers.

Payment

1 -Cash with ECU Include cash with parcel (it’s covered for loss if you use Royal Mail Special Delivery).

2 – Paypal – send direct to vantuner@ymail.com or click the Paypal.me link below. ( enter amount to pay followed by your paypal login details or  click pay by card if you prefer a card payment.

paypal.me/vantuner

Emails –

Hi Martyn, first impression of the van now is brilliant only taken it around the estate but it pulls like a train now.Revs higher and quicker than before also a little quieter until I put a k&N on and a small noticeable difference again. Best performance gain ive ever had for the money, thats cars and race bikes included . Can’t thank you enough Daren.Will let you know what it’s like on the open road soon as I’m still not supposed to be driving but had to try it.

(2001 120ps Tddi Mk6 Transit Postal Tune – Jan 2014)

From: trevor 
Email: <trevor*****@hotmail.co.uk>
Location: kent
Phone:  01227 ********
Make, Model, Year, Mileage:ford transit 100ps 2002 134,000 miles

Message Body:
We can’t thank you enough for the postal remap you did for us 4 days ago. Acceleration through 1st,2nd and 3rd is much improved and pulling power in 4th and 5th is better, Also the flat spot between gears that we have always had has gone,making gear changes easier and quicker and on top of all that, fuel consumption seems slightly better and we haven’t tried it on a long run yet! Thank you once again regards Trevor.


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